Judamondo

There are some boulder problems that you can’t leave alone – that you soon or later you have to come back to. I first looked at the blank green wall of Judamondo before it had had an ascent, when it was still one of the last obvious projects left on the sandstone. There seem to be just enough holds perfectly spaced up to that tempting looking pocket – high enough to make it interesting above pads, but not too high to make it dangerous. I could see that it could be climbed, but I was not sure if I could climb it.

Then in 2010 Ben Read finally claimed this gem after 25 sessions on it (originally on a rope and then as a boulder problem), making it possibly his hardest contribution to climbing in the South East. I gingerly gave it a go now that I knew this was possible, but there was always an excuse – it was at the end of the day, the holds were sandy or the feet weren’t clean. I didn’t invest fully. But every time I walked past that wall at Eridge I knew I had to come back at some point. My sandstone CV would not be complete without it.

In autumn last year I decided it was time. I threw a rope down the line and actually put some time into the line. Unsurprisingly the moves were both as good as I hoped and a lot easier when they are not covered in dust! Also using a rope to work out moves is a time saving technique that I wish I found earlier in life.

It began to come together. The moves all went in one session and session two I was on the penultimate hold, session three I had my hand in the tempting, but on closer inspection slopey, final pocket. But alas, no cigar as winter set in and the rain started pouring. I waited for spring and drier conditions.

In the last weekend of February it was finally dry enough for me to get back on it. The moves came together individually on a rope again, but once again I walked away empty handed. On the 12^th March this year, my fifth session and 6 years to the day of Ben’s first ascent, I headed back with my mate Steve Darling who was also keen to get on it. However, the movement felt a bit weird – I don’t know if it was a bit warm, or perhaps some condensation on the rock or if I was feeling weak that day (probably most likely), but it was not clicking for me. The top crux move in particular was feeling very very unlikely on a rope. Steve on the other hand had not only managed all the moves, but was making real progress on linking them together. Amazingly could it go in a day for him?

I suggested just going for it above pads. Why not? Steve kindly let me go first and it went perfectly. My feet needed no re-adjustment and my hands hit the precise right hand pinch effortlessly. The last move felt routine when it has felt almost unclimbable minutes before. I had done it – the second ascent of what I think is probably one of the best 7s on the sandstone, a modern classic. I couldn’t believe I had been walking past it all these years instead of getting on it. Steve clearly agreed as he came back the next day and then two days later where he walked away with the third ascent (below)

https://vimeo.com/159098169

For me my mind is now turning to what to do next – but I can’t recommend this problem highly enough for anyone looking to get out on the sandstone. You will come back to it time and time again (unless you do it in a day?) Roll on more dry weather and the next project….