It has been a while since I last blogged, largely due to the
amount of work, climbing and decorating I have needed to do, but I thought it
was time for a quick update! I have been largely climbing at Eridge Green this
summer, as it a crag where I still have a fair amount left to do (both
established lines and potential projects!)
After what might have been the wettest June I can remember
on the sandstone, in July we finally got some climbable conditions. I headed to
Eridge with nothing in particular in mind to climb. I ended up underneath the
classic highball Hypersonic (7B+) and noticed some potential holds just to the
right of this line. Admittedly they stopped before the top of the crag, but
there was definitely some climbing (or bouldering at least) to be done before
that. I set about trying the moves and worked out that it was basically a two
move problem – pull on a left hand pinch and right hand side pull, make a big
move up to a right hand pinch and then pull through to a small but positive
crimp ledge level with the pocket on Hypersonic. Simple… or not. These two
moves proved to be quite intricate, but when it came together it made a nice,
albeit little, problem at 7A+. I feel it finishes in a logical place (the ledge
is a clear feature in line with the pocket), but I would like to take this
problem higher, if I can find some holds! I named it Patience due to the month
of rain we had before this.
After this came a surprise. Deep in the woods of Eridge,
while looking at a completely different climb, I stumbled across a rounded arête
with a ‘gritstone style’ ramp feature. At first glance I wasn’t sure if it
would be possible to climb – but after some inspection I found some small
crimps and a shallow pocket on the bottom of the ramp. It was on! After a few
contorted sessions where I tried a huge number of ways to climb this line I
finally found some nice beta involving a high right heel which I could sit on
to get through the crux of the climb. The allowed me to put up my favourite new
route of the year so far. I named it Joshua, in honour of my friends newly born
son, and graded it around 7B. Since then I have shown a couple of people this
problem, and after a second ascent (using completely different beta) the grade
and quality of this line was confirmed.
My final addition was a small problem near Joshua. This is a
slightly contrived line in that it eliminates the arête and holds to the right
of the arête (I am not normally a fan of eliminates, but it seemed to make
sense on this problem). This boils down to two quite technical moves separated by
a nice no hands rest. Considering the dark canopy of trees it is under it felt
right to dub this one Lord of the Light at 6B+.
Hopefully we can have a dry autumn and with some colder
temps send some harder problems!
Reviewing a pair of climbing trousers is an unusual
experience for me. I know what I’m doing when I’m evaluating a new pair of
climbing shoes, and more importantly I know exactly how, if they are good, they
can help my climbing progress. However, climbing trousers don’t work the same
way. Until someone invents ‘low gravity’ trousers or a pair that have jet packs
instead of pockets, what you wear is not going to generate the same type of
hype a new cutting edge pair of climbing shoes does.
However, having said that we all wear trousers (I hope!) and
as a result need them. I also think I am not alone in having preferred trousers
for climbing. Comfortable with enough flexibility to get your foot up high – I
don’t want to just pull on any old pairs of tracksuit bottoms if I am trying to
send something close to my limit.
I have worn Prana trousers for years. Having grown up
watching Chris Sharma’s ground breaking ascents in his latest film, they were
always going to be a popular brand for me. However it is more than that, they
tick all the mobility boxes (it helps that they cater for Yoga as well as
climbing), have an excellent ethical approach to business, as well as their
designs having a certain chic that draws the eye.
I am happy to say that the Zander pant surpassed all my
expectations (well apart from the anti-gravity/jet pack thing!) It is one of
the most lightweight and comfortable pairs of trousers I have worn climbing.
They are made of stretch organic cotton that is both soft and (unsurprisingly)
stretchy. I also like the bright and bold colours that they are being produced
in – great for eye catching photos! I have worn them a couple of times now,
including a session at the weekend where I decided to put them through their
paces by climbing a variety of problem styles on my local southern sandstone
and they just felt great to climb in.
So will the Prana Zander pant give you an extra grade in
your climbing? No, I’m afraid it won’t. However, it will provide you with an
attractive and comfortable fit which means you can keep your mind on what
really matters – the climbing!
I love a long weekend when I get to squeeze more climbing
and less work in. I love it even more when the weather plays ball and I
actually get to climb outside – a rarity in this country. Finally if I actually
feel good on rock and send some new problems I don’t think it gets better than
this. All three elusive pieces came together this weekend.
On Friday I drove down to Tunbridge Wells with my wife to spend
the night and next day visiting some of our friends who live in the area. I
awoke bright and early on the Saturday morning and saw an opportunity for a
little bouldering session while everyone else had a lie in. Now my friends live
just next to Toad Rock and are surrounded by little sandstone boulders. The
most obvious one is a very striking prow that you can see from their house. The
aesthetically pleasing arête is a font 6A problem called ‘Ankle Locker’ (some
clues about the beta) that Ben Read put up a few years ago. Is there anything
better than climbing a quality line in the morning sunshine? I couldn’t believe
I hadn’t been on this bloc before – it could rival ‘Red Snapper’ for best 6A on
the sandstone!
In the gully of the same bloc is hidden ‘Car Crash Arête’,
another Ben Read addition but a little harder at font 7B. At first inspection
this looks unclimbable as after some initial good holds there is very little
else until much nearer the top. However I managed to work out that it is
possible to throw to a poor sloping hold on a lip to the right – hold this and
you are more or less done. After some considerable work I eventually sent it –
I think only the third ascent of this line after Ben and Peter. Again
thoroughly recommended, especially as this area has had a lot of gardening done
to it recently, making both problems much easier to reach!
On the Sunday I headed back to Mount Edgcumbe Rocks where I
have been commencing battle with a stubborn project. Unfortunately it was too
hot to do any of the moves on this, so my attention turned to a couple of other
lines I have been eyeing up as potential problems.
One of the most obvious features to a boulderer visiting
this crag is the small, but steep roof in-between Smiling Buttress and Dusty
Buttress. At first I thought that there were not enough holds and that the rock
was too soft for it to be of interest to the climber, but after some careful
cleaning of the holds I found a potential line. It is essentially a training
board style problem – pull on with a crouching start on two opposing side-pulls
(obvious because they are the only holds in the roof!) and make a big move to a
good hold. This is then followed by a droppable sandstone style mantle-shelf/grovel.
Focusing on catching the hold and engaging my core I eventually dispatched it.
I have named it ‘Fruit of the Spirit’ as one of the biblical fruits of the
spirit is self-control, a quality that is needed on this problem. I think it
weighs in at around font 7B?
The other line I had often looked at was the vertical side
wall to the right of ‘Faith’. The climbing looked relatively straight forward,
although the landing slopes away and I wouldn’t want to fall from the top
moves. I gave the holds a brush and sussed a sequence on rope before going for
the send. With some tentative feet placement at the top I sent the problem. I
feel the name ‘Meekness not Weakness’ is appropriate and I settled on a grade
of font 6C, which takes into account the airy finish. Now the weather is
improving let’s hope there are plenty more weekends like these ahead.
There are some boulder problems that you can’t leave alone –
that you soon or later you have to come back to. I first looked at the blank
green wall of Judamondo before it had had an ascent, when it was still one of
the last obvious projects left on the sandstone. There seem to be just enough
holds perfectly spaced up to that tempting looking pocket – high enough to make
it interesting above pads, but not too high to make it dangerous. I could see
that it could be climbed, but I was not sure if I could climb it.
Then in 2010 Ben Read finally claimed this gem after 25
sessions on it (originally on a rope and then as a boulder problem), making it
possibly his hardest contribution to climbing in the South East. I gingerly gave
it a go now that I knew this was possible, but there was always an excuse – it was
at the end of the day, the holds were sandy or the feet weren’t clean. I didn’t
invest fully. But every time I walked past that wall at Eridge I knew I had to come
back at some point. My sandstone CV would not be complete without it.
In autumn last year I decided it was time. I threw a rope
down the line and actually put some time into the line. Unsurprisingly the
moves were both as good as I hoped and a lot easier when they are not covered
in dust! Also using a rope to work out moves is a time saving technique that I
wish I found earlier in life.
It began to come together. The moves all went in one session
and session two I was on the penultimate hold, session three I had my hand in
the tempting, but on closer inspection slopey, final pocket. But alas, no cigar
as winter set in and the rain started pouring. I waited for spring and drier
conditions.
In the last weekend of February it was finally dry enough
for me to get back on it. The moves came together individually on a rope again,
but once again I walked away empty handed. On the 12th March this
year, my fifth session and 6 years to the day of Ben’s first ascent, I headed
back with my mate Steve Darling who was also keen to get on it. However, the
movement felt a bit weird – I don’t know if it was a bit warm, or perhaps some
condensation on the rock or if I was feeling weak that day (probably most
likely), but it was not clicking for me. The top crux move in particular was
feeling very very unlikely on a rope. Steve on the other hand had not only
managed all the moves, but was making real progress on linking them together. Amazingly
could it go in a day for him?
I suggested just going for it above pads. Why not? Steve
kindly let me go first and it went perfectly. My feet needed no re-adjustment
and my hands hit the precise right hand pinch effortlessly. The last move felt
routine when it has felt almost unclimbable minutes before. I had done it – the
second ascent of what I think is probably one of the best 7s on the sandstone,
a modern classic. I couldn’t believe I had been walking past it all these years
instead of getting on it. Steve clearly agreed as he came back the next day and
then two days later where he walked away with the third ascent (below)
For me my mind is now turning to what to do next – but I can’t
recommend this problem highly enough for anyone looking to get out on the
sandstone. You will come back to it time and time again (unless you do it in a
day?) Roll on more dry weather and the next project….
This month the new Shaman from Evolv arrived in the UK. I
have been somewhat excited about this. The original Shaman was a great shoe
that I wore pretty much exclusively in 2013 – one of my best years climbing on
the Sandstone. In them I ticked some fairly technical test pieces including the
third known ascent of Sansara 7A, The continuing Adventures of Porg 7B+
and perhaps the best of the trio Porgs
Progress 7B (video below).
However, I am apprehensive when climbing shoe companies
relaunch shoes. ‘Don’t fix something if it isn’t broken’, not to mention
potentially ruining memories of a shoe that served me well in a personal purple
patch of climbing. I am happy to report that this is not the case with the
Shaman mark 2!
Just like the old Shaman’s the new shoe maintains the Love bump and
Knuckle Box. For those of you who haven’t tried a shoe with these features I
think they need a bit of explanation. The profile of the shoe, as you can see,
is aggressively down toed and when you put your foot into the shoe it forces it
into this shape. This ensures that your foot is in a powerful position where
you can literally pull in with your toes – in the past this has been achieved
by simply wearing climbing shoes tighter and tighter. Needless to say it is a
lot more comfortable to have a shoe in a down turn mould rather than trying to
mould the shape of your foot through an overly tight fit! My initial thoughts
when I first tried a shoe with a Knuckle box was that this would be a shoe that
would perform well on overhanging walls, as it is so downturned, but would it
perform on vertical or under hanging angles? This has been considered in the
construction of the shoe though and when you stand on footholds on less
overhanging ground the Knuckle box bends as you extend your toes. The result
being that it not only performs well on steep ground, but is a genuine all
round shoe that is just as technical on vertical walls and slabs. I gave them a
test run on a variety of angles at my local wall:
Evolv have also added more rubber on the toe which allows for more
hooking and scumming. This is a welcome addition as I think both toe hooking
and scumming are underrated techniques, particularly outside where they have
helped me get through difficult moves where strength alone is not enough.
Speaking of rubber Evolv have continued to use their TRAX rubber – which I find
as sticky, if not more so, than any other on the market.
Finally Evolv have designed the new Shaman so that it when the straps are
undone the shoe has a wide opening in which to put your foot in. This is much
welcomed as you no longer have the age old battle of trying to get your foot
into a well-fitting shoe through a small opening. The blue and orange colour
design is also nice looking and ensures the Shaman 2 looks as good as it
performs.
So overall I would recommend the Shaman 2. It is still early days (I have
only had a couple of sessions in them), but it seems as if Evolv have taken
what was a very good shoe to begin with and made it even better. All I need now
is a weather window big enough to get outside in them. Roll on spring….
It has been a little while since I last blogged – thanks
largely to the massive amounts of work I have had to do in the last couple of
months. But with the beginning of the summer holidays I have slightly less to
do and an opportunity to not only climb but also write about it. The title of
this blog is ‘7C+’ as the main news I have to report is sending two font 7C+
projects on the sandstone. First in June I sent ‘The Read Line’ while in July I
sent ‘Mojo Traverse Extension’.
‘The Read Line’ is a traverse at Eridge Green that I got
frustratingly close to last year. It involves some big powerful moves into a
reasonable edge, which is then very difficult to match before a very technical
and droppable end. Last year I fell off on that droppable end! I was keen to
get back on and finish this off this year when I noticed that the crack line at
the beginning (where you not only have to match, but match on hand jams – ouch!)
has broken a bit. With some re-tweaked beta and high feet I managed to solve
this issue. I likewise found a nice foot scum on the hard matching move which
makes this a lot easier to do. The lesson is to climb smarter, not stronger
(although if I was stronger maybe I wouldn’t need to climb in a smarter way?)
In terms of grade, this was originally given 7C by Ben Read, but I think it was
upgraded to 7C+ following repeats from Polish Pete and Barnaby. Since the crack
has broken and got worse I certainly think it warrants the 7C+ grade.
‘Mojo Traverse Extension’ at High Rocks is one of those
problems for locals who have basically done everything else that they can do –
perfect for me! In May Polish Pete showed me his new problem ‘Grunge Rover’ (font
7C) and a link up that he had repeated - ‘Mojo Traverse Extension’ (font 7C+).
Grunge Rover climbs the classic font 7B ‘Mojo’ to the break before moving right
through a big move off the sloper of ‘Mojo Variation’ to finish at the tree. It
is a great set of moves that I managed to send in June after tweaking my beta
on the big move off the sloper to pull more with my right heel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xt0yQrFL0j4
‘Mojo Traverse Extension’ has the same finish, but starts on ‘Mojo Traverse’
(font 7B). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I70hNXKJx68
There are no really hard moves on this link up, but it is long (at least from a
bouldering perspective!). When I eventually sent the extension/link up it was
due to climbing through the first 7B section quick enough so I didn’t feel too
tired for the crux ending of ‘Grunge Rover’. In terms of grade, I think this
one is easier than ‘The Read Line’, but just about squeezes in at 7C+ - it
certainly took me longer to tick off that I thought it would!
My final ascent in these last couple of months was chronologically
the first one back in early June (and also not 7C+!). This was at Mount
Edgcumbe Rocks and was a fairly long traverse into ‘Mustard Seed’ (5+), which I
settled on a grade of 6C. This is one of those great climbs that is very hard to
do unless you properly climb it – you can’t just be strong. With nice flowing
moves and intricate footwork I was very happy with how it turned out! I named
it ‘Curb Rash’ after my late Grandfather (this was his nickname in WWII for
being a shorty), which seemed appropriate considering the small stature of the
climb.
Unfortunately our summer seems to be turning a little damp
at the moment – let’s hope we can squeeze a bit more in before the winter
months!
At High Rocks in the hidden alcove (in what is sometimes
called the secret garden) there is an obvious low level traverse called ‘Bum
Dragon’. The name gives a lot away – it is very easy to drag your bum on the
floor (get it!) and therefore fail the route. First put up by Pete Ziegenfuss
in 2002/2003 at font 7C+ the line starts on the far right on the obvious ledge
and traverses left underneath the roof (below the traverse line of ‘Crosstown
Traffic’ font 7C) on a variety of small crimps and smeary feet before finishing
round the corner on the slab. It is an obvious line, and while you are never
off the floor more than a few inches for the majority of the climbing, the quality
of the moves are excellent.
I had played on the moves in previous years but had become
increasingly frustrated at the painfully small crimps and more significantly
the non-existent feet in an unavoidably bunched position. It was in March last
year that I properly started trying the moves. After a few sessions I had
worked out some pretty good beta – instead of keeping my feet low I put my left
foot high up on a handhold and flagged my right leg under. This gave me
something to pull on as I shuffled along the poor crimps. Unfortunately the more
I progressed, the closer I moved to my left foot, which decreased the amount I
could pull off it. These 4-5 hand movements form the incredibly frustrating
crux section where each individual move is ok, but trying to link them all
together feels much harder. If you catch one of these holds slightly wrong then
the next move becomes fairly unlikely. After nine sessions on the problem last
year, and having made some reasonably good links, I became distracted by other problems
and left it.
In January as the rain poured down I reflected on what I
would like to climb this year on the sandstone. ‘Bum Dragon’ stood out as
unfinished business. Last year I wasn’t serious enough about trying to link the
hard moves together – my fingers weren’t strong enough at the time and nor was
my core. I set about training on the fingerboard and rings in April and May
before getting back on the problem. This year I felt much closer after only a
couple of sessions, as I had already worked all the moves out, and having got
close a few times I finally sent ‘Bum Dragon’ last Wednesday (27th
May) the first go of my 6th session this year (15th
session overall).
This brings me to the question of what grade it is. Pete
originally gave it font 7C+, but as far as I am aware my ascent twelve years
later is only the second ascent, despite attention from a variety of strong
climbers who have ticked problems in the eighth grade. I have climbed five
problems that are graded as font 8A – ‘Never Ending Story’ (Magic Woods, 4
proper sessions), ‘The Thing’ (Cressbrook, 2 proper sessions), ‘Fuerte a Muerte’
(Albarracin, 4/5 sessions), ‘Black Hoe’ (Anston, 2/3 sessions) and ‘Quarantine’
(Anston, 1 ½ sessions). I ticked all of these off far quicker than I did ‘Bum
Dragon’ (15 sessions over 15 months) and it is also certainly the hardest thing
I have climbed on the sandstone so far. The style also seems to suit me,
featuring weird flexibility and precise beta which I have had to refine.
Therefore the question is whether I should suggest that ‘Bum Dragon’ be
upgraded to font 8A?
This has put me in a bit of a dilemma. To me it felt like it
was 8A based upon other problems I have climbed at that grade, but I would
believe it if someone also repeated the problem and declared it hard 7C+. Furthermore
if I declared it 8A that would count as the first 8A on sandstone dating back
to 2002/3 and significantly re-write the record books. Like most climbers I
feel uncomfortable suggesting an upgrade, therefore I am going to dodge the
issue slightly and suggest that it is font 7C+/8A. The next ascensionist can
determine whether I was being too generous by suggesting it could weigh in at
8A, or agree with me and bump it up to a full 8A. Grading is always very
personal in climbing and is a very imprecise science unless the problem has had
multiple ascents, and as it has just been repeated by me I don’t think I can
bump it up a full grade based upon my experience alone. What ‘Bum Dragon’ needs
is a few more repeats to finalise its grade and that is what I would like to
see as the moves are excellent and the process of climbing it, despite being
frustrating at times, was very rewarding! Hopefully it will take less than
twelve years this time! In the meantime I have other on the sandstone to turn
my attention to now….
On Friday I eagerly returned home from work to find my new pair
of Evolv Luchador’s had arrived in the post. In anticipation of testing them
out I checked the weather forecast for the weekend (it was raining of course),
but not to fear I headed to the wall on Sunday to see how they would perform.
The Luchador is Evolv’s latest shoe in the Chris Sharma series
(which has produced some outstanding shoes already including the Nexxo and
Shaman), available in both a lace up and in a Velcro. It is basically designed
as a technical all-around shoe, comparable to the Pontas lace-up that I was
very partial too a few years ago, or La Sportiva’s Miura or 5-10’s pink Anasazi
lace-up. The Luchador is designed as what I would describe as a 90% shoe, in
that it is what I would want to wear on the majority of my climbing, with
perhaps a change to a more aggressive model such as the Nexxo if I was climbing
a project on a hugely overhanging wall that required an aggressive downturn.
On Sunday I climbed in them for a few hours as I went about my
normal training and while it is difficult to evaluate a shoe’s performance
after one session I was pleasantly surprised with how good they felt straight
out the box. The rand (the profile of the shoe) is slightly downturned, meaning
that the Luchador has a compromise between a flat rand and more aggressive
models. As I have mentioned this means that on steep walls (35 degrees and
steeper) a shoe with more of a downturn would perhaps be more suitable if it
was a problem that was near my maximum grade. However, most climbing
(especially outside) is on more vertical or slightly overhanging faces, and the
Luchador excels on walls like this. The edging (both inside and out) of this
shoe is quite simply ridiculously good! By only having a slight downturn with
quite a stiff sole I felt like I was cheating as I stood on minuscule edges at
the wall. On limestone and slate where edging is so crucial on small positive
footholds this would certainly be my shoe of choice. I videoed a few climbs at
the wall to show the versatility of the Luchador.
My main worry about the Luchador was whether I would be able to
smear effectively in it, as while a slight downturn and stiff sole are good for
edging, they often detract from the flexibility in climbing shoes that is
needed to smear. However, even in session one I felt confident smearing - as
the middle climb in the video shows on a classic Craggy Island horror show. I
was also not sure about the new elastic tongue system – as at first it makes it
more difficult to get the shoe on your foot. But this not only holds the shoe
closer to your foot (creating a more secure fit), but will probably reduce the
amount of sand and grit getting in (always a problem on the Sandstone). The
shoe is also made from a synthetic upper, which should mean that there is very
little stretch – something I always look for in a shoe as there is nothing
worse than your shoes ‘bagging’ after a couple of months of use. The lining is
also surprisingly soft and provides a nice amount of cushion to ensure that the
shoe feels comfortable, but that this is not done at the expense of precision. Finally,
the rubber is the Evolv standard of TRAX – which always does the job for me!
So would I recommend this shoe? Most definitely, in fact I already
have to a friend of mine! I often feel that climbers don’t evaluate what shoe
will be the best for the problem they are trying – relying too much on one
shoes for all styles. I prefer to go to crags and walls with a range of shoes
in order to meet all available challenges (the other shoes that I climb in being
the Evolv Nexxo and Shaman). The Luchador will definitely be coming out when I
head out on the slate, limestone, edging problems and probably for routes in
general as it is so comfortable. When combined with the other shoes in the
Evolv range I can’t really blame anyone else but myself if I can’t get up
something!
It has been a while since I last blogged –
this is for two reasons. One is that I injured my finger on the 1st
of December. Two is that all the rock in the South East has been wet in the
last few months (dam winter!). However, both of these factors have begun to
change in the last few weeks…
First of all the injury. While warming up
on a font 6b at Craggy Island my foot slipped off a hold – unfortunately my
hands stayed on the holds. The result was a hyper extended couple of fingers –
manly the ring finger on my left hand which I have injured before. This is a
bit of weird injury (not to mention annoying – injuring myself in the warm up
for goodness sake!) and at first I was not sure about what action to take. As
it timed with the run up to Christmas, I basically took the month of December
completely off to rest the finger. Since January I have been easing back into
climbing, gradually progress through the grades up to about font 7a. At times I
have questioned whether I am going to fast or too slow, but experience with
finger injuries have left me with a pretty good sense of what is an acceptable
ache and what is worrying pain. My methods seem to be further confirmed in Dave
Macleod’s new book Make or Break that I have
been avidly reading since its recent release (pictured above). Injuries are also a great time to
re-focus on technique – when I last injured the same finger two years ago I saw
a huge improvement in my slab techniques and footwork, which paid dividends
that summer on the sandstone. Hopefully the same will ring true this summer?
Anyway the finger is almost there I think – at least I feel closer to where I
was in December (although much weaker obviously!).
This brings me on to number two – the
weather. Winter and climbing on the Southern Sandstone don’t really coincide.
While I watch videos of youths sending Careless Torque or Voyage on the
gritstone, all we have down south is some wet sand (literally in some places!).
However, as the winter draws to a close and following some rare sunshine this
week I managed to head out for the first time this year. This was also
motivated by my desire to try out my shiny new orange Metolius Session crash
pad (picture below) which arrived this week! One of my favourite ways to kick off the Sandstone season is to try and
repeat the multiple classic problems on the North Boulder at Harrison’s Rocks.
I caught a couple (Original Route font 5+ and The Sheriff font 6b) on video from this year, which I have posted above. Not only
do these problems dry fast (good tip for those who are also looking to get out
in the coming weeks!) but they also remind me of the importance of footwork on
sandstone.
I have also spent the
winter searching out some new problems for the drier months. This search
included a closer look at my main find from last year – Mount Edgcumbe Rocks,
in particular the upper tier. It was up here that I added a new problem this
week – ‘Mustard Seed’ (font 5+), see the video below. This is a small problem (hence the name), but
it climbs well and it is nice to get out climbing at all before Easter, and even better to get a FA. I also started work on some other problems at various crags, but
alas, it is still too wet for most of them. Watch this space once the sun comes
out – hopefully there is plenty more to come in 2015.
Climbing shoes are for me the most
important piece of equipment in climbing. They can make a problem feel 3 grades
easier, and unfortunately if they are the wrong pair, ten times harder.
Changing to a new shoe can be stressful; after all you know what your current
pair can do. However, there are few things more satisfying than discovering
‘your new climbing shoes’ – a pair that not only feel just as good as your
current shoes, but so much better. Dare I say it; they may even help you break
that next grade boundary?
A bit of context is needed here. During my
first 8 years of climbing I experimented with a variety of shoes and brands –
Boreal, 5-10, Sportiva, Scarpa, to name but a few. However, it wasn’t until
2007 that I found a make that truly fitted my feet – Evolv. Suddenly I had a
comfortable, yet tight heel, rather than a baggy one that came off when I
really pulled on heel hooks. The rubber was sticky and they lasted a reasonable
amount of time. My preferred shoe was the Pontas Velcro, in which I climbed my
first font 8a that summer, as well as many of my most memorable climbing
experiences. The picture below is taken on a new route I was attempting in
Leavenworth, Canada in 2008. That is not to say I wasn’t partial to the other
shoes in the Evolv range – I lead my first sport 8a+ in the Pontas lace-up, and
I still have a soft spot for the Talon for steep overhanging walls.
However, last year I ended my five-year
obsession with the Pontas, as I started wearing Evolv Shamans. I was uneasy at
first. This was a far more aggressive shoe than the Pontas, with the ‘love
bump’ and ‘knuckle box’ forcing your toes into a down turned position. However,
I quickly realised that this new design was not just suited to steep walls, but
was also as effective on slabs and technical flat walls. 2013 was probably my
best year on Southern Sandstone based upon the nine first ascents (from font
6a-7b+) that I put up. However, it was also my best year due to the
improvements I made in the technical aspects of my climbing. I have always
found slabs hard, and in the past my footwork has been the subject of many
jokes. But last year I managed to repeat the highly technical ‘Porg’s Progress’
(font 7b) and ‘Continuing Adventures of Porg’ (font 7b+), as well as getting
the second/third ascent (I’m not sure which) of ‘Sansara’, which is given font
7a, despite being more like a highly technical 7b. All of this is partially
down to my change of shoes, as I wore the Shamans pretty much exclusively last
year.
Nevertheless, since the end of last year I
have been anticipating the release of Evolv’s new performance shoe – the Nexxo.
Created with Chris Sharma (my all time climbing hero!), and building upon the
success of the Pontas (it also includes a ‘love bump’ and ‘knuckle box’) I
couldn’t wait for them to arrive in the UK. At last my pair arrived a couple of
months ago, and like a child at Christmas I eagerly unwrapped them - they
looked amazing! New climbing shoes always take a bit of time to bed in – but I
was pleasantly surprised by how quickly these shoes felt just right. I think it
might be due to the elastic top section, but the nearest comparison I can make
is that it felt as if I had a rubber sock on. Everything felt so precise, and
within a week of starting to wear them I don’t think I have worn my Shaman’s
once. However, it is not just how much control I have pushing down that
impressed me, but it’s the rubber on the top of the toe as well. I have
struggled with toe hooks for years (I find it quite painful to make my leg do
that for some reason), but the ample rubber on the top of the toes has made
them a lot easier. Multiple people who have tried this shoe have expressed this
as well. Unfortunately I have not had much opportunity to try them on rock yet
as the weather seems to have turned against us recently, but on the few visits
I did manage to make to sandstone with them they justified being my first
choice shoe – as I sent ‘Quoi Faire’ (font 7b) at Stone Farm, finally being
able to stand up on a particularly nasty sloping foothold.
So there we have it – I am
in love with a climbing shoe, and that shoe is the Nexxo by Evolv. I didn’t
think I could be swayed from the Pontas so quickly - which I still rate as a
top quality shoe, that I am sure I will still use from time to time. But the
Nexxo’s have impressed me so much in such a short time frame I am genuinely
very excited to see what I can do in them on my projects this winter.
Stone Farm is a great little outcrop just
to the South of East Grinstead, with lovely views overlooking Weir Wood
Reservoir. More importantly, it is the closest major outcrop from my house, and
contains some classic problems! I have not climbed here enough in the past, as
despite it being so close to home, it is quite a faff coming or going to the
other bouldering areas, which are nearer to Tunbridge Wells.
However, I ended up here last month for a
picnic with my wife. Despite the hot temps I couldn’t help but try my luck on
one of the classic mid-grade problems on the sandstone, ‘Milestone Mantle’
(font 6b+). This involves a difficult and reachy pull off the ground, before
slapping round a small roof, which is unfortunately often wet. I have a history
with this problem, as I last attempted it as a naive 18 year old, who thought
it must be a jump start (which would make it even harder). However, it proved
no problem this time, and fully deserved its stellar reputation. As is the case
in climbing, once I sent the stand I couldn’t help but look at the sit start –
‘The Painkiller’ (font 7b). This is essentially 3 moves from a positive start
hold, going up twice with the right hand to two poor slopers, before reaching
out left to the good starting side pull. At first I could not do a single move.
Everything felt so precise, and not just in the way you have to hold the holds,
but you needed to get your body in just the right position in order to weight
them properly too. The third move is also the hardest, as moving left
inevitably destabilises the right hand and often leads to a barn door effect.
Long story short, I eventually did all the moves that day, but not the problem.
However, I could not let it go and I came back a few days later when the temps
were a little cooler. Unfortunately the top of the problem was a little damp,
and my initial idea of warming up on it did not go smoothly! Luckily the
crucial bottom holds were dry, and in cooler temps I despatched the problem
(even if the top was a little harder than last time!) Since then I have spoken
to my friend Peter who did the first ascent, and it seems that I got the second
ascent (to our knowledge?!). We also discussed the grade, which like a lot of
sandstone is definitely harder than its recorded grade of font 7b – for me it
feels more like font 7b+, possibly even 7c? Only further ascents will tell…
After sending ‘The Painkiller’ I had an
hour or so spare, so I cast my eye over ‘Quoi Faire’ (7b). This is an old
school English 6c top rope from the 1980s up an imposing buttress, with the
main difficulties being centred around getting established on the top wall
after pulling round an initial roof. However, in recent years it has been
climbed as a highball, and I felt inspired to try this after seeing a video of
Belinda Be Fuller soloing it earlier in the summer. It proved tricky, and I
could not seem to get round the crux. I eventually bailed on the problem after
continually failing to match my feet on a large sandy ledge. I did not return
to Stone Farm until a few days ago. This is largely due to being away in
Romania and Wales with work, but I was psyched to get back. This was also down
to having in my possession a new pair of Nexxos by Evolv (thanks beyond hope
climbing!). I have been drooling over these shoes for months, and was so
excited to get my hands on a pair! New climbing shoes always require a breaking
in period for me, but after two brief indoor sessions I felt more than
comfortable taking them out to the sandstone. After a quick abseil down to suss
the top section I set about trying the problem again. It went about 4th
go of the evening, and the Nexxos more than lived up to their deserved hype as
I easily matched the sandy foot ledge that had caused me so many problems in
August. Quality shoes, quality climbing! Unfortunately the route is so big I
couldn’t fit it all in shot – below is the best that I could manage.
With ‘Quoi Faire’ ticked off, and still two
hours of light left I went for a little wander over to Standen Rocks. This is a
very minor outcrop that I have not visited before – but I am always curious to
see if small spots like this have any overlooked potential for new routes. I
was not disappointed. The main buttress was fully developed, but on the wall
behind there was only one route, ‘One Fine Day in June’ English 5a, which
follows a diagonal crack/flake system from left to right. However, directly
above the start of this problem the rock rises into a nice rolling overhang,
which was unclimbed. I ran back to my car to grab some pads in an attempt to
climb the line before I got benighted. At first I tried to stick strictly to
the left hand arête, but the top proved both too sandy, and too close to the
main buttress, which made it almost impossible to not dab. Instead I took a
more central (and more obvious) line through the overhang, with the crux move
being reaching to a right hand side-pull, and using this to pull past the roof
section. The climbing was not hugely difficult, and I settled on font 6b+
(English 5c in old money), although it was fun, hence the name ‘Hidden Pearl’.
This would be a regularly climbed mini-classic if it was at a more popular
venue, but if anyone fancies a walk up to Standen Rocks (again with a nice view
of the reservoir below), I don’t think they will be disappointed.
Today I completed a project of mine at
Mount Edgcumbe Rocks that I have been working on for a few sessions. It is
highball, technical, varied in style and in angle – in short what I wanted in a
project (although less dusty rock would have been preferable!).
This line has gone from me not being able
to get past the second move, to making a couple more move of progress, to
abseiling down to assess and clean the top holds, before I put it all together
today.
I have called it ‘Faith’ – very simply
because the crux involved standing (and matching) your feet on a sandy sloping
foothold before pulling up to a small pocket/pinch. It requires total faith
that your feet will stay (mine peeled off on many other occasions), as well as
maintaining ones centre of gravity in a very delicate position.
As for the grade – I went for font 7b in
the end. Like almost every project I have tried the line looked reasonable, I
got shut down and I thought it was really hard, before I sussed a new sequence,
which made it feel much easier than I was anticipating. This might be on the
softer side of 7b, but considering the height of the problem, and the
difficulty of working out the moves (this would be an impressive flash – if
there are any takers?!) I think the grade is fair. It felt similar in style and
difficulty to the two ‘Porg’ problems at High Rocks (font 7b and 7b+) at least,
which helped me to grade it.
So another project rapped
up – plenty more to go! I feel spoilt for choice at the moment as the sun is
drying everything up nicely – got to love summer on the sandstone!
One of the nice things about climbing is
coming back to old projects. Quite often there can be months, even years in
between your attempts, and it is in returning to these old undone problems that
you can see how much you have progressed. It is definitely an element of
climbing that you miss out on if you only climb indoors. In the last couple of
weeks I have taken a small break from new routing (it can be exhausting finding
and cleaning problems, before the climbing even starts), and I have really
enjoyed returning to some unfinished business on the Southern Sandstone.
First up was ‘Maybe When You’re Older’
(font 7b) at Bowles. I met up with a friend mid-week and did a few top ropes at
Bowles, and while I was there my eye drifted over to this traverse. I had tried
this line once before a couple of years ago, when it was not in the best
condition. I did all the moves that day, but I couldn’t put the whole thing
together. Anyway, I came back at the weekend, repeated the moves, and to my
surprise sent the whole link within about 10 minutes of trying. What was really
nice was how easily this climbed, considering how hard font 7b can be on the
Sandstone!
Next up was ‘Yoda Assis’ (font 7c) at High
Rocks. I had ticked the stand start to this (font 7a+) back in 2012, but when
attempting the sit start it looked like a crucial undercut had come off, making
it un-climbable. However, sometimes you can’t get a problem out of your head,
and I found myself sitting once again underneath Yoda. Indeed, I think that the
way that it had been climbed via the undercut would now be very unlikely,
however, I started playing around with a slopey left hand hold. This hold is
very poor in isolation – yet when you sit just under it and compress with your
right hand and feet, it gives you just enough to dead point through to the top
section of the problem. In a moment of elation I held this move…. and then I
remembered both how difficult the top was and that I was approaching it from a
different (and more awkward angle). I didn’t send the problem that day, but a
week later I returned, and after tweaking the beta for the top section I sent
what has got to be one of the coolest 7cs on Sandstone.
The final un-finished problem that I have
tried recently is ‘Hypersonic’ (font 7b+). This is a striking line up a high
blank wall at Eridge Green. The problem starts with a tricky (and dynamic) move
to get to a large pocket. From here there are basically no more hand holds for
another meter and a half, which forces the climber to do a large move from
undercutting the pocket to reach a vague break, where a selection of small but
positive edges lead to a finishing jug. Traditionally from here you would top
out using an old tree, but this is long gone these days and recent ascents
instead involving using a rope to pull round the sandy top out (the last meter
or so really is completely un-climbable!). I had tried this problem before, but
I had always struggled with the large reach off the pocket. However, off the
back of climbing the previous two problems I felt a certain momentum that could
help me dispatch this one as well. This problem also went fast – so fast in
fact that I didn’t film it (this is also difficult to do due to how big the
route is). However, it did provide one of those wonderful moments in climbing –
as I reached from the pocket to the small ledge – where you do a move where
everything feels perfectly in balance. Unfortunately I haven’t been able to
capture this climb on film - but there are other videos of the route being done on youtube.
New Routing is for me a relatively new part
of my climbing. It requires a slightly different approach to that one would
normally take when out bouldering. When trying someone else’s problems I would
try and watch videos, get beta and send it as soon as possible. With new routes
there are no videos, there is no beta, and while trying it you have no idea if
it is possible. Also the speed is far slower as you need to clean the problem
(new problems on southern sandstone are even sandier and dirtier than established
ones – if you can believe that), find the holds (often not as obvious as you
would hope!) and try and find a workable sequence. Every new route that I have
done has followed a similar trend of trying what I thought was a desperate
line, which I question if I can do, before I find a new hold or sequence which
‘unlocks’ the problem. It is a great part of climbing, that I am really
enjoying – especially the discovery part. Last year I found a new boulder –
this year I am developing a whole new crag. Mount Edgcumbe Rocks.
Mount Edgcumbe Rocks is a small crag that
is mentioned in the ‘Other Outcrops’ section of the 2008 Climbers Club Southern
Sandstone guide as: ‘A small outcrop on Tunbridge Wells Common, close to
Wellington Rocks. A major tree clearance took place here in the mid 90s, and
there is now potential for a few new routes.’ I first checked the crag out last
year. At first it looks incredible, with imposing roofs jutting out above clean
landings – but on closer inspection, while these faces may appear impressive,
they are clearly not suitable for bouldering due to being far too sandy. It was
after drawing this conclusion that I began to walk away. However, a couple of
vertical walls caught my attention. The rock appeared fairly solid, and there were
some interesting pocket and pebble features (very rare on southern sandstone).
I made a mental note to come back after winter when the crag had dried out.
The first occasion that I got to climb here
was in early April, when some of the potential problems had just about dried
out. I cleaned up a nice looking groove line next to a small roof that is sadly
too sandy to climb on. The climbing is centred on a nice dish feature, which is
reached via some monos and pebbles, before pulling into some more pockets. This
felt desperate at first, as I could get little purchase on the crucial dish.
However, a lesson that I have learnt the hard way from new routing is that the
holds are rarely in good condition when you begin trying to climb virgin rock.
The dish needed a good dusting before it became useable. Suddenly it all became
very possible, and what I thought could be a problem around the mid-sevens,
ended up becoming ‘New Jerusalem’ (font 6c+). The grade could be a little stiff
– I debated with 7a, maybe it is, but nonetheless the quality of the problem is
excellent. Names of routes are something that I struggle with sometimes. I like
to have a religious theme throughout most of my problems, and I didn’t buck the
trend here. As it was the first route at a new venue that could become a great
new circuit, I thought ‘New Jerusalem’ was an appropriate name – also there is
a problem with the same name at Caley, and I have always thought it sounded
good!
Due to a trip to Font (see last blog post)
and some poor weather I didn’t get back to Mount Edgcumbe Rocks until early
June. Since my last visit no one had come to try my route or to put anything
up. Incredible, when you consider that this is a 10-minute walk from Tunbridge
Wells train station – thousands of climbers must have driven past this area
over the years. This certainly would not have been the case up North! Anyway,
on my second trip I got stuck into another problem on the same buttress as ‘New
Jerusalem’. On the far end of the wall there is a distinct sloping feature at
head height in the shape of a smile, somewhat reminiscent of ‘Smiling Buttress’
at Curbar. While it basically forms a one-move problem I began trying to move
off this feature to the top. The handholds are quite poor, but it is the lack
of feet that makes this hard. Essentially, hanging the hold is relatively
comfortable, but any upwards movement off it felt hard. Like ‘New Jerusalem’
the holds needed cleaning, but once tidied up it became clear that this was
both possible and very good. I eventually sent it, and ‘The Smile’ (an obvious
name) was born at a grade of font 7a+, although once again it will take further
ascents to confirm this.
Next to ‘The Smile’ there is a shallow
groove, which is fairly sparse of holds until near the top. The beginning is
clearly where the difficulties are, but how to get to the holds near the top
posed a problem. However, I surprised myself by sending this quite quickly.
While it looks blank, the first section is balancey yet surprisingly feasible,
meaning that the problem ended up being font 6b+. I named it ‘The Diaconate’,
as I had just become a deacon of my church.
While there is a gap in-between ‘The
Diaconate’ and ‘New Jerusalem’, this is still a project that I haven’t been
able to do as of yet. Instead I turned my attention to the buttress the other
side of the sandy roof. This is higher than the other buttress (which I have
named Smiling Buttress – what else!), but it is similar in that it is covered
in pockets and pebbles. I decided to try the easiest looking line of
resistance, which goes up the left side of the wall on a very vague arête,
beginning with a pull round an overlap. This was dusty even by the standards of
southern sandstone (so much so that I have named the buttress ‘Dusty Buttress!)
It was also very difficult to read, as there were lots and lots of similar (and
fairly poor) pockets to choose from. However, I eventually sussed a sequence
that involved pinching a collection of pockets and pebbles and doing a big slap
to the top. This I appropriately named ‘Through the Dust’, at a tentative grade
of font 6c+.
So there it is. One new crag, four new
problems, and potential for at least three more quality routes - probably more.
I am planning to come back soon and add some more additions, but I would be
really great if some other boulderers could come and confirm the grades – watch
this space!
So here it is, my first ever blog! As I
have called it ‘sandstone bouldering’, what better place to start than with a
trip to the sandstone bouldering Mecca of Fontainebleau. Matt Cousins and
myself headed here for a week over the Easter holidays, and as I sat down to
write this I reflected on how I have chosen to use my holiday time. Instead of
kicking back in a nice five star hotel (what my wife sensibly did with her
week) I chose to stay in probably the worst hotel ever made and battle against
some rocks. Bouldering trips seem to be a series of mini battles, whether it is
against conditions, projects or yourself. As such, instead of just writing a
tick list of what we have climbed, I have put each problem within a broad
‘battle’ category that I think many of us have faced in climbing.
The Previous Battle:
I think everyone who has been bouldering
for a few years has one of these. You are planning a trip, which of course
involves hours of youtube and guidebook research to find the perfect problems.
You go on said trip and find that the problem that looked so easy in the video
is actually an unsolvable monstrosity that you can’t even imagine climbing –
one to leave to your future self! One of these for me was ‘La Gaule’ (font
7c/+) at Bas Cuvier. I remember trying this when I was 19 years old. I had
climbed 7c+, surely a font 7c compression problem (my climbing style of choice)
would be the perfect problem for my trip. No, no it was not. I remember not
being able to do a single move and drawing the conclusion (or excuse) that I
was not tall enough to climb the problem. Eight years later, and we ended up at
Bas Cuvier on our first evening. While Matt was crushing ‘Carnage’ (font 7b+)
into submission I took a wander up to La Gaule to have a look at my old nemesis.
Try the moves, why not; I’m too short to do the problem anyway! Yet
move-by-move it all began to seem more possible. Two days later I came back and
sent it. Whenever this happens I’m sure most of us think to our selves ‘how
much stronger I have got’. In this case I would like to think that this is true
– however, I think the key to sending this problem was how much better
technically I’ve become as a boulderer in the last eight years. Resting,
thinking about my feet more, and body position – these are so much more
valuable than that extra rung on a campus board.
The ‘Should have done it already’ Battle:
Perhaps the most dreaded of all battles on
a bouldering trip. Matt set about trying ‘Symbiose’ (font 7c) at 95.2 one
evening. Having worked the moves out, he began redpointing, clearly enjoying
the process as he made more and more progress up this classic line. Finally, he
made it through the crux and was on the easier, yet still technical top out.
Having climbed with Matt for 13 years I have seen him in this position hundreds
of time – composed as ever I expected him to top it out with ease. However,
once a foot slips or a sequence is slightly altered it can throw even the best
of us – and uncharacteristically of him, Matt blew it. Enter the ‘should have done
it already’ battle. This is perhaps the most frustrating of all bouldering
battles, as you fall from lower down that your previous high point, while at
the back of your mind you can’t help but remind yourself that you should
rightfully have done it by now. That enjoyable problem that you were freely
pulling up earlier, suddenly becomes a grinding battle – although more mentally
than physically. To Matt’s credit he calmed himself down with a walk before
sending the problem with his normal technical style. Often it is difficult to
walk away from a problem – but when you have been this close it become almost
impossible.
The Flash Battle:
Perhaps the shortest battle of them all –
the problem that you want to flash. You have identified it in the guidebook as a
climb that suits your style, you have watched every youtube video on the
Internet - you are as ready as you’ll ever be. However, when you sit down under
the climb there is that horrible voice in the back of your head that you only
get one flash attempt – no matter how well you do it on your second, third,
umpteenth go, it is not a flash. Pressure. I had two problems that I wanted to
flash;‘Magic Bus’ (font 7b/+) at
Buthiers, which the legendary Mark Croxall had flashed back in the day, and
‘Gargantoit assis’ (font 7b+) at Gorge du Houx, another compression problem
that I thought would be right up my street. Thankfully, both went well (this
time) and I walked away with two 7b+ flashes for the trip.
The Time pressure Battle:
The worst thing about a climbing trip is
when it is all over. Actually I don’t think that is quite true – I think the
worst thing is when the trip is almost over, you are tired and your skin is
shredded, and you stumble across yet another amazing looking problem. For me
this was ‘96.15 Power’ (font 7c) at Rocher Canon, the day before we were going
home. I had tried this before (another failure from eight years ago), and it
had stuck in my mind, like ‘La Gaule’. This climb is one of those great
problems in bouldering that combines power with subtle movement – I was strong
enough eight years ago, but definitely not subtle enough! I set to work and
formed a sequence that was consistently leading me up to the crux final slap.
But I was tired, my skin was screaming, and I could feel myself becoming less
precise. I hate leaving problems that I am close on, but after three hours you
begin to question whether this is meant to go this trip. ‘Just one more go’ I
said to myself again and again, as I’m sure all boulderers have! On one of
these ‘final goes’ it all came together and I sent the problem – I have
deliberately not edited out the end of the video when I come down from the
boulder as it shows both how shattered and pleased I am that I ticked this
problem.
The Battle too far:
If I climbed every problem that I tried on
a climbing trip I don’t know if I would be happy – I like having something
(although not lots!) to come back for. This trip the main problem that I’m
desperate to come back for next time was ‘de la Terre a la Lune’ (font 7c+) at Gorge
du Houx. This is a visually stunning boulder that involves shouldery indoor
style climbing lower down before transitioning to a rather delicate and
technical upper section. We found this mid-way through our trip and decided to
return on our last day and once again face the long walk in (ok it was 20
minutes – but that’s no Bas!). Matt got desperately close (as you can see in
the clip), and I’m sure that he would have got it if he were fresh. This was a
battle too far for me – I got nowhere on it! But it is nice to have an excuse
to come back in the near future, and at least I have something to watch on
youtube in the mean time.
