New Routing is for me a relatively new part
of my climbing. It requires a slightly different approach to that one would
normally take when out bouldering. When trying someone else’s problems I would
try and watch videos, get beta and send it as soon as possible. With new routes
there are no videos, there is no beta, and while trying it you have no idea if
it is possible. Also the speed is far slower as you need to clean the problem
(new problems on southern sandstone are even sandier and dirtier than established
ones – if you can believe that), find the holds (often not as obvious as you
would hope!) and try and find a workable sequence. Every new route that I have
done has followed a similar trend of trying what I thought was a desperate
line, which I question if I can do, before I find a new hold or sequence which
‘unlocks’ the problem. It is a great part of climbing, that I am really
enjoying – especially the discovery part. Last year I found a new boulder –
this year I am developing a whole new crag. Mount Edgcumbe Rocks.
Mount Edgcumbe Rocks is a small crag that
is mentioned in the ‘Other Outcrops’ section of the 2008 Climbers Club Southern
Sandstone guide as: ‘A small outcrop on Tunbridge Wells Common, close to
Wellington Rocks. A major tree clearance took place here in the mid 90s, and
there is now potential for a few new routes.’ I first checked the crag out last
year. At first it looks incredible, with imposing roofs jutting out above clean
landings – but on closer inspection, while these faces may appear impressive,
they are clearly not suitable for bouldering due to being far too sandy. It was
after drawing this conclusion that I began to walk away. However, a couple of
vertical walls caught my attention. The rock appeared fairly solid, and there were
some interesting pocket and pebble features (very rare on southern sandstone).
I made a mental note to come back after winter when the crag had dried out.
The first occasion that I got to climb here
was in early April, when some of the potential problems had just about dried
out. I cleaned up a nice looking groove line next to a small roof that is sadly
too sandy to climb on. The climbing is centred on a nice dish feature, which is
reached via some monos and pebbles, before pulling into some more pockets. This
felt desperate at first, as I could get little purchase on the crucial dish.
However, a lesson that I have learnt the hard way from new routing is that the
holds are rarely in good condition when you begin trying to climb virgin rock.
The dish needed a good dusting before it became useable. Suddenly it all became
very possible, and what I thought could be a problem around the mid-sevens,
ended up becoming ‘New Jerusalem’ (font 6c+). The grade could be a little stiff
– I debated with 7a, maybe it is, but nonetheless the quality of the problem is
excellent. Names of routes are something that I struggle with sometimes. I like
to have a religious theme throughout most of my problems, and I didn’t buck the
trend here. As it was the first route at a new venue that could become a great
new circuit, I thought ‘New Jerusalem’ was an appropriate name – also there is
a problem with the same name at Caley, and I have always thought it sounded
good!
Due to a trip to Font (see last blog post)
and some poor weather I didn’t get back to Mount Edgcumbe Rocks until early
June. Since my last visit no one had come to try my route or to put anything
up. Incredible, when you consider that this is a 10-minute walk from Tunbridge
Wells train station – thousands of climbers must have driven past this area
over the years. This certainly would not have been the case up North! Anyway,
on my second trip I got stuck into another problem on the same buttress as ‘New
Jerusalem’. On the far end of the wall there is a distinct sloping feature at
head height in the shape of a smile, somewhat reminiscent of ‘Smiling Buttress’
at Curbar. While it basically forms a one-move problem I began trying to move
off this feature to the top. The handholds are quite poor, but it is the lack
of feet that makes this hard. Essentially, hanging the hold is relatively
comfortable, but any upwards movement off it felt hard. Like ‘New Jerusalem’
the holds needed cleaning, but once tidied up it became clear that this was
both possible and very good. I eventually sent it, and ‘The Smile’ (an obvious
name) was born at a grade of font 7a+, although once again it will take further
ascents to confirm this.
Next to ‘The Smile’ there is a shallow
groove, which is fairly sparse of holds until near the top. The beginning is
clearly where the difficulties are, but how to get to the holds near the top
posed a problem. However, I surprised myself by sending this quite quickly.
While it looks blank, the first section is balancey yet surprisingly feasible,
meaning that the problem ended up being font 6b+. I named it ‘The Diaconate’,
as I had just become a deacon of my church.
While there is a gap in-between ‘The
Diaconate’ and ‘New Jerusalem’, this is still a project that I haven’t been
able to do as of yet. Instead I turned my attention to the buttress the other
side of the sandy roof. This is higher than the other buttress (which I have
named Smiling Buttress – what else!), but it is similar in that it is covered
in pockets and pebbles. I decided to try the easiest looking line of
resistance, which goes up the left side of the wall on a very vague arête,
beginning with a pull round an overlap. This was dusty even by the standards of
southern sandstone (so much so that I have named the buttress ‘Dusty Buttress!)
It was also very difficult to read, as there were lots and lots of similar (and
fairly poor) pockets to choose from. However, I eventually sussed a sequence
that involved pinching a collection of pockets and pebbles and doing a big slap
to the top. This I appropriately named ‘Through the Dust’, at a tentative grade
of font 6c+.
So there it is. One new crag, four new
problems, and potential for at least three more quality routes - probably more.
I am planning to come back soon and add some more additions, but I would be
really great if some other boulderers could come and confirm the grades – watch
this space!
